Think of all the foods you loved as a kid, all of those Southern favorites that Grandma made, and even pick a few flavors that you’d never think of putting together. Now take your list, add fresh ingredients, a bit of chemistry and chef Jeremy Clayman and you’ve got yourself the most exciting food experience that downtown Raleigh has to offer.
The Mint restaurant, which was opened on Jan. 8 by the Raleigh Restaurant Group, describes itself as “contemporary fine Southern dining with global influences.” The description may seem like it goes an adjective or two overboard, but, I promise you, The Mint delivers on all counts.
Upon walking in the front door a sense of grandeur settles upon you. The entryway is roomy, framed by a large mahogany host stand and a heavy steel vault door. The ceilings are high. The maitre’d wears a suit.
The chicness of the entryway gives in to the “contemporary” and “Southern” descriptors, with earth-toned walls displaying metal marsh grass and back-lit, glass tablatures of North Carolina’s landmarks. All of this stands out against the classically French white tablecloths.
The food, of course, is the center of the restaurant’s existence and combines fine, contemporary, Southern and global tastes even better than the atmosphere.
Besides being nearly perfect in taste, texture and composition, the butter poached lobster embodies all four — lobster, in all its fineness; bourbon caramel sauce, for that Southern twist; the fact that the lobster is paired with popcorn and caramel flavors definitely lends a contemporary vibe; and the method of cooking, a French-born practice called sous-vide is inarguably global.
Another menu item that plays with everything we thought we knew about food is the strawberry gazpacho. This typically tomato soup is sweetened up with fruit and Vidalia onion and receives an in-your-face finish of liquid nitrogen tableside.
Perhaps less scientifically stimulating, but just as fresh, is the long list of salads The Mint offers. There’s something for everyone, from bitter arugula to sweet baby lettuce, but the heirloom tomato salad stands out among the greens. Huge wedges of red, yellow and orange tomato pop among ribbons of mozzarella and basil (yes, ribbons) in this intricate version of the old standard.
The entrees read off the menu in a deceptively traditional way. Offerings include such regulars as filet mignon, seared tuna and pork chop. Even chicken makes it onto the list, a selection that caused me some initial skepticism but turned out to be astonishingly original.
Clayman’s duck breast steals the show, however, combining bitter, sweet and sharp tones. The contrasting flavors of a pungently sweet gorgonzola-filled pear enhance the duck’s mellow woodiness. Only one small thing threw the plate off — an overly seasoned duck confit, which overpowers the other, more delicate, flavors.
Deserts include standbys like a melty chocolate cake and a lemon creme brulee, along with some more novel concepts like the simply named “P,B&J.” Something so reminiscent of sloppy lunch swapping in second grade has to be tried.
There’s no Wonder Bread here. What arrives is a toasted piece of brioche, a recipe that takes three days to make according to Clayman, homemade peanut butter ice cream, which is more like a smooth gelato, and four bubbly mounds of purple, huckleberry foam. The combo is a mish-mash of textures — crumbly, smooth, airy — that stays true to taste, down to the ice cold glass of milk which accompanies the dessert.
The icing on this near-perfect cake is the service. In an upscale restaurant it can be easy to feel intimidated. But have no fear, the servers, hosts and assistants at The Mint are welcoming and just plain nice. The wait staff is even willing to answer any questions you have about the more unique items on the menu.
The Mint should top any foodie’s list of places to try. For dinner, appetizers start at $15 and entrees range from $23 to $34; lunch entrees come in at $10 to $14. A three- or four-course meal at The Mint is on the expensive side, but any clever student on a budget could make it work.
The restaurant is open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday and for lunch Monday through Friday.
