Black lipstick. Skinny jeans. Piercings. Hard-hitting bands. 

Trademarks of alternative culture are making a resurgence, which begs the question: Is it cool to be “emo?”

Alternative music and fashion have taken on many forms and subcultures. Punk, goth, emo, metal and grunge are just a few of the many sections of the alternative genres that continue to develop and change.

In the early 2000s, many prominent pop-punk and emo bands were making their way onto the scene. Panic! At the Disco, Fall Out Boy and My Chemical Romance accrued a loyal fanbase, consisting mostly of teenagers in eyeliner and combat boots.

While those who participated in this culture attempted to defy the norm, these releases caused a stark uptick in alternative music and fashion for a few years. 

Particularly in the emo music scene, bands would inspire fans to be who they are and to not pay attention to bullies and or mainstream trends. Fans of the music found comfort and community in these messages and felt more free to express themselves. However, the popularity of this culture eventually took a dive in the 2010s.

But recently there has been a resurgence of alternative music and fashion in the mainstream. My Chemical Romance is on tour again, “Wednesday” is one of the most popular shows on Netflix and Panic! At The Disco is releasing a 20th anniversary album.

This resurgence has brought about a wave of acceptance and more alternative spaces are popping up online and in real life.

In Raleigh, there are many places that promote emo culture. Chapel of Bones, a metal venue and emo coffee shop, Neptunes Parlor, an alternative music venue with emo karaoke nights and Doghouse, a house show venue on the rise are all places to indulge in this culture and connect freely.

Julius Won, a second-year in marine sciences, is part-owner and operator of Doghouse. 

Doghouse hosts a slew of music, including punk, hardcore and emo groups. They pride themselves on an inclusive atmosphere where people are free to express themselves. Won discussed how the uptick in these spaces draws attention to the political nature of the alternative movement.

“Another part of [the resurgence] has to do with politics,” Won said. “Punk is politically motivated music and as more right-wing things pop up in the United States, the counterculture will rise to meet it and more alternative stuff will come about. It’s a function of political polarization.”

However, as emo culture has become more mainstream, many people who join in are only interested in the music and aesthetics and may be unaware of the history or potential for political impact.

Leslie Ledesma, a second-year at Wake Technical Community College and the vocalist of Murder Kittenz, believes that although there may be more people who look alternative, not everyone who sports the fashion is truly a part of the culture.

“Alternative fashion in general has become more popular, especially around the pandemic. People had a moment when they didn’t have to care about what other people had to say about them,” Ledesma said. “But, it also came with a lot of people who didn’t care about the political aspects of punk, goth or emo. They mellow it down to purely aesthetics. You see people who look alternative but don’t have the right view of it.”

This sudden increase of emo culture and fashion can also be attributed to mainstream media’s positive portrayal of alternative celebrities. Massive media outlets such as Vogue often praise the alternative wardrobe of A-list celebrities such as Jenna Ortega and Mia Goth. There is also a mass output of alternative clothing by fashion chains such as Shein and Urban Outfitters.

Paul Dugdell, a first-year in forestry management and a member of the All Music People Club, explained how being alternative went from being completely taboo to being mainstream in a short amount of time.

“When my older sister was in middle and high school, she was really into emo music, especially My Chemical Romance. People back then thought it was really weird. Now that’s normal and it’s only a 3-year age difference between us,” Dugdell said.

But, as black becomes the new pink, the meaning of alternative can become lost among the masses. 

“A lot of people are into emo culture just because they think it’s cool now. Alternative is becoming the norm,” Dugdell said.

Regardless of if you think it’s a trend or a lifestyle — it is important to pay attention to the history, political power and core values of alternative and emo culture when participating. Ultimately, this resurgence of emo and alternative culture should create a larger community that recognizes the impact of free expression and unity through experimentation and great music.